Tipping - What the hell is it?
The tipping of a tie refer’s to the back piece of fabric at the bottom of both ends of the tie that covers the rear of the blades fabric. Today we are going to explore the different types of tipping and why they are used and the advantages and disadvantages of the different tipping styles. The 3 most common ones we’ll discuss are self-tipped, un-tipped and silk/satin tipped.
Self tipped ties refer to the tipping being made in the same material as the tie is made in. Usually found in more expensive ties due to having to use the fabric of the tie rather than cheaper silk/satin tipping. There’s no real disadvantages to self—tipping apart from making very heavy silks and wools too thick, but we’ll cover that a bit further down. The biggest advantage of a self tipped tie is it’s the strongest construction and will no doubt last longer than other types of tipping.
Un-tipped ties are currently very in fashion with the #menswear market with lot’s of companies now making them. They are a clothing enthusiasts tie as in my experience the average joe thinks they are inferior due to the lighter weight compared to other tipping methods.
So yeah, they look cool with the hand-rolled edges and all but that doesn’t mean all ties should be un-tipped. Grenadines are not ideal to be un-tipped because the open weave causes the fabric to be susceptible to stretching and an un-tipped tie is more fragile already so the 2 don’t make a good combination unless you like replacing ties after a year. Un-tipped ties in my opinion are best on plain fabrics like twills, linen/blends and printed silks and wools, that have clean backings. Used on woven jacquard fabrics they can look very messy as the back of the front blade is exposed. Hand-rolling should be uniform, tight and even, not wonky and loose.
This type of tipping is mostly found on cheaper ties because it’s the cheapest way to tip a tie, but there are exceptions as to why it can be used on higher end ties also. The most common one, and the only time we’ve ever used it is for heavy wools and cashmere’s that would simply make the tie too heavy and thick if self tipped and aren’t suitable for being un-tipped.
So there you have it, it might sound like a small part of what makes up a tie but you can now see what differences the different tipping methods make when considering buying your next tie. Next week we’ll cover interlining and I’ll be dissecting a couple of ties to explain how they affect the knot, weight and drape of a tie.
What is a neat print tie?
An often confusing name for a tie, I was asked this exact same question at our trunk show last week so I thought it’d be in everyone’s best interest to share this knowledge for anyone that’s seen it described as such but doesn’t know.
In short, a neat print is a small and repeated/geometric print that is repeated throughout the fabric, be it silk, or challis or madder or other materials. The majority of the worlds neat’s are printed in either Macclesfield, England (mostly screen printed) or in Como, Italy (mostly ink jet printed), though there are also exceptions to both of those statements.
Some people consider neat’s as suit only ties and I’m generally inclined to agree though I do wear them with plainer sports coats and blazers often. They don’t tend to work with overly patterned coats like gunclub checks because you end up with 2 competing patterns at a similar small scale. Certainly there are exceptions to this as some more advance dressers demonstrate.
Some people consider woven rather than printed floral geometric ties to be neat’s, though I don’t. YMMV.
Simplicity is a neat ties friend, so if you want some basic advice of what to wear with them let the tie do the talking and think about a navy or charcoal suit in a plain worsted or subtle pattern like a nail head, a light blue shirt in either plain or a pencil stripe and dark brown or black oxfords. It’s a simple, conservative and formulaic approach that sees you through almost any CBD situation.
Some photo’s from our Canberra Winter trunk show at Braddon Tailors studio. Great night had by all with plenty of whisky flowing to keep everyone warm on a cold Canberra night.